Wianki

Wianki

First broadcast on Ex-Pat Radio, 15th June 2008
© John Marshall 2008

Next Saturday, 21st June, is Midsummer’s Day, the shortest night of the year. And as you would expect, Krakowians aren’t going to let the occasion pass without some kind of party. And what a party: Wianki, it’s called - and it’s big, loud and heaps of fun. Next Saturday, there’s only one place to be: down by the Wawel and the Wistula river for a night of top class international music, spectacular fireworks and the chance to observe and even take part in ancient pagan traditions.

First, the history. An ancient festival that dates back to Pagan times, Wianki literally means 'wreaths' and it is a traditional midsummer celebration celebrating the usual midsummer themes of life, renewal and, er, virginity. Unsurprisingly, with the early arrival of Christianity into Poland, Wianki was rebranded "Noc Świętojańska", or St. John's Night, and, no doubt, some of the more earthy practices such as young lovers consummating their love in nearby woods, toned down a little. However, even in Christian times, some elements of the original festival remained over the centuries, such as the telling of fortunes, letting wreaths float on water, and jumping over the huge ceremonial bonfires (sobotka), which are still lit along the banks of the river.
Traditionally, on Wianki, Polish girls wear wreaths of flowers with a lighted candle in the centre and throw them into the river. According to folklore, if the wreath comes back to shore, the girl will never marry, if it sinks, she will die young and if it flows down the river, she will be married and be happy. Oh, if only modern dating was so easy! Fortunately for the girls (and the local lads) the Wistula is a fast flowing river and, traditionally, most girls went away happy.
Back in the 16th Century, when times and people were, perhaps, simpler, Jan Kochanowski wrote the following description of Wianki traditions and beliefs:
In Poland the Eve of St. John's is fraught with miracles and magic. Animals talk to each other with human voices. The earth shows the enchanted riches in its depths, glowing with fires. In wild ravines the barren fern blooms. Certain plants take on magical properties. Flowers and grasses made into wreaths will forecast a maiden's fate. Wreaths to which are fixed lighted candles are cast in the waters so that their courses may be followed. From the course and fate of the wreaths auguries of marriage are made. The special promise of St. John is youth, love and general fertility.
The special promise of St. John is youth, love and general fertility, hmm? I think I’ll use that as a chat-up line next Saturday.

I’m not holding out much hope, though. We Europeans, Poles or otherwise, seem to have lost much of our superstitions, pagan beliefs, respect for, and connection to, nature. What started out, in the mists of time, as a celebration of life, health and vitality has, like so many celebrations, been eclipsed by those more modern values: noise, spectacle and the veneration of the new Gods, alcohol and money. Not that I’m one to refuse a drink, thanks, now you’re asking.

But pace yourself with the amber nectar next Saturday, gents. You’ll need to keep your wits about you for all those beautiful maidens and their garlands. There’s a competition, you know, to find the best garland on the day. So, come on, all you ex-pat ladies, do your bit for international relations and throw your garlands – and your destiny – to the Gods!

Now, apart from the floating of wreaths, there are musical performances, dignitaries' speeches, fairs and fireworks by the riverbank opposite the Wawel. If you’re anywhere in the city center next Saturday, it’s going to be almost impossible not to get caught up in it all: my advice is simply to allow the crowds to gently sweep you towards the river, the lights and the sounds of one of the biggest nights in Krakow’s diary.

As Jan Kochanowski himself said:

Let us this evening celebrate
With all its old accustomed state...
With joyous melody and song.

There are always big musical names at Wianki. The list of Polish bands includes Mosquitoo, Loco Star and June. Also, Kasia Nowicka, a real diva of Polish club music, better known by her stage name, Novika, will weave a tapestry of subtle electronic sounds, while Bisquit will seek to enchant with their ethereal jazz and the warm voice of their vocalist Joanna Wlodarska. As for the headline act, no less than the British group Jamiroquai will rock your pagan socks with their mixture of pop, funk and acid jazz. Oh, and did I mention the amazing firework show?

A spectacle it sure is, and one of Krakow’s entertainment highlights of the year. However, having personally experienced the last two Wiankis, it must be said to those of our more cynical listeners that, yes, the size of the crowds are outrageous and it all sometimes seems like just another occasion for Tyskie, Zywiec et al to flog the corporate cow. But don’t throw the baby out with the Wianki bathwater, and remember that, whatever happens next Saturday night, you’ll have a night to remember and at least bloody Fish from Marillion won’t be playing again! See you there!